Fashion & Beauty

Jean Louis: Hollywood's Bombshell Designer

The untold story of the visionary designer who redefined Hollywood glamour, elevating costume design into a true art form.

Jean Louis’s creations illuminated more than 180 films across three decades and resulted in some of the most remembered garments during Hollywood’s Golden Age—from Rita Hayworth’s smoldering satin column dress in Gilda to Marilyn Monroe’s iconic nude illusion gown worn to sing “Happy Birthday” to President Kennedy. Jean Louis: Hollywood’s Bombshell Designer features dozens of film stills, fashion sketches, and movie posters illustrating the career of an artist that helped define the femme fatales, showgirls and ingénues of American cinema’s most famous films.

Arriving at a timely moment amid a renewed resurgence surrounding Marilyn Monroe’s legacy as her centennial approaches in 2026—an anniversary sure to heighten fascination with Old Hollywood style and the ever present influence of Jean Louis on the modern red carpet: Nicole Kidman, Margot Robbie, Beyonce, Sydney Sweeney, and Rihanna have all channeled Jean Louis’ bombshell styles recently and Kim Kardashian made headlines when she wore Monroe’s Jean Louis gown to the Met Gala.

A tribute to craftsmanship, beauty, and style, the book stands as a glamorous testament to the enduring brilliance of Jean Louis and the timeless spell of Hollywood’s most radiant era.

About The Author

Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha are the founders of MAO Public Relations and the authors of several Rizzoli books, including The Stephen Sprouse Book, Gloss: The Work of Chris von Wagenheim, and Antonio Lopez: Fashion, Art, Sex, and Disco. Kim Novak is an American actress whose contributions to cinema have been honored with two Golden Globe Awards, an Honorary Golden Bear, a Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement, and a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame.

  • Publish Date: September 29, 2026
  • Format: Hardcover
  • Category: Design - Fashion & Accessories
  • Publisher: Rizzoli
  • Trim Size: 9-3/4 x 12-3/4
  • Pages: 304
  • US Price: $75.00
  • CDN Price: $100.00
  • ISBN: 978-0-8478-7644-0

Reviews

"The dress Marilyn Monroe wore to sing "Happy Birthday" to President John F. Kennedy in 1962 has become one of the most recognizable garments in history. Far less famous is the man who designed it...The man behind the dress was French costume designer Jean Louis...Now, for the first time, Louis' remarkable career is being told in full. Jean Louis: Hollywood's Bombshell Designer (Rizzoli), by brothers and veteran fashion publicists Roger and Mauricio Padilha, traces the couturier's journey from Paris to Hollywood, where he became one of the defining costume designers of the studio era...Featuring a foreword by Novak, whom Louis dressed in Pal Joey (1957) and Bell, Book and Candle (1958) before the pair became lifelong friends, the lavishly illustrated volume explores his collaborations with Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Lana Turner, Julie Andrews, Ann-Margret, Gina Lollobrigida and Claudia Cardinale, among other legends. It also showcases hundreds of original sketches, photographs and rarely seen archival materials." — HOLLYWOODREPORTER.COM

"There are certain images that seem to belong to everyone.Rita Hayworth in Gilda, framed in black satin. Marilyn Monroe, shimmering in crystals beneath the lights of Madison Square Garden. Marlene Dietrich onstage in soufflé silk, beaded to look like nothing at all. These images have been reproduced, referenced and reimagined so many times that they can feel as though they have always existed. Behind them was a designer whose name is far less familiar than the women he dressed: Jean Louis...he brought a remarkable understanding of construction and silhouette to Hollywood...Over the course of his career he worked on 188 films and won an Academy Award for Best Costume Design for The Solid Gold Cadillac (1956)...Long before “naked dressing” became a familiar fashion trope, Jean Louis was finding ways to make the suggestion of nudity more powerful than nudity itself...He built images that could stand without him, and they did. And decades later, we are still looking." — IRIS COVET BOOK MAGAZINE

"Here’s another man whose work you’ve almost certainly encountered, whether you realize it or not. Rita Hayworth peeling off a glove in that black satin gown in Gilda? Jean Louis...Marilyn Monroe serenading President Kennedy in a dress that still causes arguments more than six decades later? You guessed it. Jean Louis. Born in Paris in 1907, Jean Louis Berthault trained in French couture before moving to New York, where he worked for Hattie Carnegie, and eventually heading west to become Columbia Pictures’ head costume designer. He dressed everyone from Joan Crawford and Judy Garland to Kim Novak and Lana Turner, helping create the images of movie stars we still reference today. His clothes could suggest sex, money, innocence, or trouble before the actress wearing them had said a word. You thought the naked dress was a new concept? And yet, while those women became household names, his didn’t. Brothers Mauricio and Roger Padilha would like to do something about that...They have a knack for reminding us how much we owe the people behind the images we love. Their new book, Jean Louis: Hollywood’s Bombshell Designer, published by Rizzoli, gives the man behind the dresses a long-overdue close-up. The pair spent two years watching all 188 films he worked on, digging through archives, and tracking down people who knew him." — DEREK BLASBERG, "AND ANOTHER THING", SUBSTACK

"The purpose of this beautiful book published by Rizzoli? To bring back to light this creator who died in 1997, who continued to work, in his sixties, in this constantly evolving cinema. "One could say that Jean Louis was probably the most 'fashionable' of the great Hollywood costume designers. His career was rooted in fashion: he cut his teeth in the fashion houses of the Place Vendôme before coming to the United States to work at Hattie Carnegie, one of the most influential American ready-to-wear houses of the time. In this way, he brought to Hollywood a resolutely fashion-oriented look, approaching costumes with a sophistication and sensitivity that set him apart from his peers," says Mauricio Padilha." — VANITY FAIR

Author Bookshelf: Roger Padilha, Mauricio Padilha